AHAS (13) Alguronic Acid (26) Avocado (2) BHA - Salicylic Acid (2) Citric Acid (10) Collagen (12) ... ALGENIST GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief 40ml £ 55.00. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? It makes your skin feel nice and smooth (emollient), gives body to cream type products and helps to stabilize water and oil mixes (aka emulsions). Its comedogen index is 0, meaning that it's pretty much an all skin-type oil. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. As for hair care, it is a non-volatile silicone meaning that it stays on the hair rather than evaporates from it and smoothes the hair like no other thing. It still often shows up in the ingredient list of soaps and other cleansers. Add to Bag ALGENIST POWER Advanced Wrinkle Fighter Moisturizer 60ml £ 68.00. 10 day results, always. 16 were here. Amino acids are also the building blocks of proteins, such as collagen, so when you thoroughly chop up a big collagen molecule, you end up with an amino acid mixture, like this guy we are writing about. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. An oil soluble vitamin C derivative that has mixed data about its effectiveness. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Super common little helper ingredient that helps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. "One of the key amino acids found in collagen helps act as a soothing agent, so we packed the formula with our Active Vegan Collagen TM, Collagen Amino Acids, Alguronic Acid, and powerful plant ingredients like Calendula, Edelweiss and Beta Glucan from oats," Yaiser tells The Zoe Report in an email. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. On balance, the point is this: in contrast to real plant oils, wax esters were designed by Mother Nature to stay on the surface and form a protective, moisturizing barrier and jojoba oil being a wax ester is uniquely excellent at doing that. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it's nice). Thanks to its vitamin E content it also has some antioxidant properties. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improve water-resistance of sunscreens. It's known and grown for jojoba oil, the golden yellow liquid coming from the seeds (about 50% of the weight of the seeds will be oil). A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. is especially high in linoleic acid that is great even for acne-prone skin. Algenist. These ingredients act as amino acids which prompt collagen production. A common functional ingredient that helps to keep the oil-loving and water-loving ingredients together (emulsifier), stabilizes and thickens the products. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. It’s a solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amounts to adjust the pH of the product and make it just right. It’s mainly a solvent for ingredients that do not like to dissolve in oils but rather in water. Btw, if you chop it up less thoroughly, you get hydrolyzed collagen, a kind of peptide mixture with smallish chains of amino acids. It is a liquid-gel formula with micro-beads suspended throughout. As for skincare, it makes the skin silky smooth, creates a subtle gloss and forms a protective barrier (aka occlusive). A synthetic liquid oil that can replace mineral oil or silicone oils in the cosmetic formulas. That is probably no coincidence. Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegan)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides … Truth be told, there are many great plant oils and sunflower oil is definitely one of them. 16 were here. Even if it can be converted, the palmitate part of the molecule is more than the half of it, so the efficacy will not be good and we have never seen a serum that contains a decent (and proudly disclosed) amount of AP. Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It's used as an emulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. It’s safe and gentle, but even more importantly, it’s not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. T&Cs and exclusions apply. Though chemically speaking, it is alcohol (as in, it has an -OH group in its molecule), its properties are totally different from the properties of low molecular weight or drying alcohols such as denat. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. In fact, it's the most common saturated fatty acid found in animals and plants. Enter FIRST10 at checkout for 10% off your first order. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. A common multi-tasker fatty acid. When researching renewable energy, Algenist’s crack team of scientists uncovered the compound that allows algae to thrive and regenerate in even the harshest environments – alguronic acid, a naturally sourced, sustainably produced compound that outperforms hosts of other age-defying hero ingredients. It’s a real oldie: expressed directly from the seeds, the oil is used not for hundreds but thousands of years. And that is still not all: it can also boost the antimicrobial activity of preservatives. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. So, AP is one of the attempts by the cosmetics industry to solve the stability issues with vitamin C while preserving its benefits,  but it seems to fall short on several things. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. 4 /5 2 reviews. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. A natural corn sugar derived glycol. Pure Vitamin E. Great antioxidant that gives significant photoprotection against UVB rays. A great study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology compared a bunch of vitamin C derivatives and this derivative was the only one where the study said in terms of stability that it's "similar to AA". Beautiful Product. So citric acid is an exfoliant, that can - just like other AHAs - gently lift off the dead skin cells of your skin and make it more smooth and fresh. Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration. puts it in his awesome blog post, squalane's main things are "emolliency, surface occlusion, and TEWL prevention all with extreme cosmetic elegance". Algenist's 'Genius Collagen Calming Relief' treatment is a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin. The big and important protein molecule that usually comes from animal skin such as fish or bovine. Avocado oil - a highly moisturizing, rich emollient oil that is loaded with fatty acids (oleic - 70%) and vitamin A, E and D. Sunflower Oil - it's a great emollient that protects & enhances the skin barrier. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. Leslie Bauman notes in Cosmetic Dermatology that one application of sunflower oil significantly speeds up the recovery of the skin barrier within an hour and sustains the results 5 hours after using it. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. A gentle treatment for all skin types, including skin showing signs of sensitivity, that comforts dryness and look of redness to restore bounce and resilience. It‘s also shown to have wound healing properties and is a mild antioxidant. Another advantage of squalane is that it is pretty much compatible with all skin types and skin conditions. It's an alternative, natural preservative that comes from radishes fermented with Leuconostoc kimchii, a lactic acid bacteria that has been used to make traditional Korean dish, kimchi. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. If these magic three letters don’t tell you anything, click here and read our detailed description on glycolic acid, the most famous AHA. 16 were here. It's formulated with soothing Calendula and Active Vegan Collagen to reduce redness and hydrate rough patches, and has Alguronic Acid to protect against the effects of environmental stressors and minimize signs of aging. Find out more. The unfancy name for it is lye. Marigold extract - contains flavonoids that give the plant anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It's loaded with the nourishing and moisturizing fatty acid, oleic (70%) and contains some others including palmitic (10%) and linoleic acid (8%). Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning it’s the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. Hexylene Glycol is also part a preservative blend named Lexgard® HPO, where it helps the effectiveness of current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. It’s pH dependent and works best at acidic pH levels (3-5). It is also soothing and rich in antioxidants. Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does not budge. It’s safe and gentle, and can be used up to 1% worldwide. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid called stearic acid. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85°C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). In other words, it's a superb moisturizer that makes your skin nice and smooth, without being heavy or greasy. It is there in lots of products in tiny amounts (honestly, we do not really understand why), however, we do not know about any vitamin C serum featuring AP in high amounts. Third, another study that wanted to examine the antioxidant properties of AP was surprised to find that even though AP does have nice antioxidant properties; following UVB radiation (the same one that comes from the sun) it also promotes lipid peroxidation and cytotoxicity. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. Both of them are big molecules that contain acrylic acid units, but Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer also contains some other monomers that are hydrophobic, i.e. It soothes, moisturizes and even shows some anti-aging magic properties. It’s a handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel. It can boost the effectiveness of phenoxyethanol (and other preservatives) and as an added bonus it feels nice on the skin too. Ingredient-level innovations. Jojoba oil - a wax ester (chemically not a real oil), that's very similar to human sebum. Shipped with USPS First Class. A preservative that works mainly against fungi. It's a clear oily fluid that is used in skincare as a nice anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredient. Propanediol is a natural alternative for the often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol. A multi-functional helper ingredient that acts as a humectant and emollient. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). It's a very rich, highly moisturizing emollient oil that makes the skin smooth and nourished. It can be produced from most vegetable oils (in oils three fatty acid molecules are attached to glycerin instead of just one like here) in a pretty simple, "green" process that is similar to soap making. Can you guess what? There are different grades depending on the molecular weight ranging from very light, volatile, non-residue leaving ones to more substantial, slight residue leaving ones. BTW, it’s also a food additive. A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicely together. You must go and read our geeky details about it.). Keep reading Until recently, collagen in skincare was either (1) animal-derived -- mostly from cows (bovine), fish (marine) and pigs (porcine) – or (2) pro-collagen ingredients – which isn’t actually collagen at all, rather peptides or amino acids. Depending on your hair type, it can be a bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). Formulated with active vegan collagen, alguronic acid and calendula, it is quickly absorbed to help to instantly improve the … Eating it is anti-diabetic, anti-cancer and even lowers the blood cholesterol. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). Ingredients: Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides Oil, Beta-Glucan, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Extract, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Tocopherol, Collagen Amino Acids, Bisabolol, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Coelastrella Vacuolata Oil, Watanabea Reniformis Oil, Citric Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Propanediol, Ceteareth-20, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Ethyhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, 1,2-Hexanediol, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Benzoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol. Please try again later! 10 day results, always. Pretty much the current IT-preservative. Algenist's 'Genius Collagen Calming Relief' treatment is a gentle yet effective solution to dry, irritated skin. It’s often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. It is one of the more promising natural preservatives that can be used even alone (recommended at 2-4%), but it's not as effective as more common alternatives, like parabens or phenoxyethanol. Thanks. I was very excited to use the new and expensive Algenist Genius Liquid Collagen Serum. According to manufacturer info, it's used  for many centuries for its exceptional healing powers and is particularly remarkable in the treatment of wounds. If you have spotted ethylhexylglycerin on the ingredient list, most probably you will see there also the current IT-preservative, phenoxyethanol. Regarding the skin-brightening properties of pure vitamin C, this is another magic property AP does not have, or at least there is no data, not even in-vitro, about it. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version of Squalane is Squalene, you can read about it here >>. Lye - A solid white stuff that’s very alkaline and used in small amount to adjust the pH of the product. 16 were here. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. BG’s main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. It comes from the seeds of African Shea or Karite Trees and used as a magic moisturizer and emollient. It's quite a multi-tasker: can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. Firstly, it's stability is only similar to that of pure ascorbic acid (AA), which means it is not really stable. Has to be combined with other preservatives. alcohol. After 8 weeks there was a significant reduction of wrinkle depth and height and skin roughness has also improved greatly. A super common multitasker ingredient that gives your skin a nice soft feel (emollient) and gives body to creams. Add to Bag ALGENIST GENIUS Liquid Collagen Hand Cream 50ml £ 36.00. Acne.org has this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. The gist of the "collagen in topical skincare" subject is to know that collagen in a jar has nothing to do with wrinkles but everything to do with skin hydration. They found that despite the large molecular size beta-glucan does penetrate into the skin, even into the dermis (the middle layer of the skin where wrinkles form). Ingredient-level innovations. It’s pretty much the current IT-preservative. The blend of these two (caprylyl glycol + phenoxyethanol) is called Optiphen, which not only helps to keep your cosmetics free from nasty things for a long time but also gives a good feel to the finished product. An error has occurred. As f.c. Our intro did get pretty big after all (sorry for that), so let's get to the point finally: sunflower oil - similar to other plant oils - is a great emollient that makes the skin smooth and nice and helps to keep it hydrated. Similar to other glycols, it's a helper ingredient used as a solvent, or to thin out thick formulas and make them more nicely spreadable. It also contains a bunch of minerals and vitamins A, E and D. Avocado oil has extraordinary skin penetration abilities and can nourish different skin layers. It’s in the cell walls of yeast, some mushrooms, seaweeds, and cereals. Ingredient-level innovations. To offer you a better experience, this site uses profiling cookies, even from third parties. It’s an ingredient whose safety hasn’t been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. The result is that the mainly oil soluble, emollient fatty alcohol is converted to an emulsifier molecule that keeps oil and water mixed in creams. GENIUS Collagen Calming Relief is a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that is specifically formulated to treat mild skin discomfort. Amino acids are important natural moisturizing factors (NMFs), that can be found naturally in the skin where they help the epidermis (upper layer of the skin) to stay nice and hydrated. Second, a study that examined the skin absorption of vitamin C found that ascorbyl palmitate did not increase the skin levels of AA. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Acrylates/​C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Leuconostoc/​Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, soluble collagen, so click here to read more >>, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, Acne.org has this not fully proven theory, According to the manufacturer's clinical study, Read all the geeky details about Tocopherol here >>, take a look at more promising derivatives here, A natural moisturizer that’s also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin, Primary fat-soluble antioxidant in our skin, Significant photoprotection against UVB rays, Vit C + Vit E work in synergy and provide great photoprotection, Easy to formulate, stable and relatively inexpensive. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. A really multi-functional helper ingredient that can do several things in a skincare product: it can bring a soft and pleasant feel to the formula, it can act as a humectant and emollient, it can be a solvent for some other ingredients (for example it can help to stabilize perfumes in watery products) and it can also help to disperse pigments more evenly in makeup products. It's also a very popular ingredient in shaving foams. Thanks to biotechnology ‍, at Algenist we can extract collagen from alternative natural plant sources and formulate with it at high concentrations. As cosmetic chemist Colins writes it, "its safety really is beyond any doubt". It was only an in-vitro study meaning that it was done on cell cultures and not on real people, but still, this also does not support the use of AP too much. Not really that good. For all skin types including skin showing signs of sensitivity, this luxurious cream provides a cushioned layer on the skin that immediately comforts dryness, tightness and the look of redness associated with rough, dry skin. It's formulated with soothing Calendula and Active Vegan Collagen™ to reduce redness and hydrate rough patches, and has Alguronic Acid to protect against the effects of environmental stressors and minimize signs of aging. It can be used to improve skin moisturization, as a solvent, to boost preservative efficacy or to influence the sensory properties of the end formula. The extract coming from the popular garden plant Calendula or Marigold. Amino acids have low molecular weight (about 150 Da), so they can penetrate the upper layer of the skin where they help moisture retention and enhance the skin's suppleness and flexibility. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. 10 day results, always. Algenist Discover pioneering, luxurious anti-ageing skincare enriched with alguronic acid, a patented, innovative ingredient sourced from algae and sustainably produced and used in every single Algenist … It’s a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. A fatty acid that can be found naturally in the skin. A real oldie but a goodie. Good old water, aka H2O. It also occurs naturally in our body and is used as a food additive. Why the puffer coat is a winter-styling essential, Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, Free from BHA, mineral oils, parabens, paraffins, phthalates, SLS and SLES, Gently massage into skin, concentrating on rough, dry, tight or red skin. Waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It's also loaded with fatty acids (mostly linoleic (50-74%)  and oleic (14-35%)). 10 day results, always. As a high-oleic plant oil, it is recommended for dry skin. According to the manufacturer's clinical study (double-blind, 40 people, 4 weeks long), 2% SymCalmin (the trade name of our diluted - 5% - molecule) reduced itchiness significantly by 65% and it also reduced redness by 50%. 103 k mentions J’aime. Ingredient-level innovations. The lightweight texture of this serum melts into skin quickly, providing an immediate skin-plumping effect. Try your purchase on in the comfort of your own home and let us know straightaway if you’d like a different size or a refund and we’ll collect from your home, work or an alternative address. We stand here with you as an Accomplice to Change. Use it every morning and night for a healthier-looking complexion. This does not mean that ascorbyl palmitate cannot penetrate the skin (because it can, it's oil soluble and the skin likes to absorb oil soluble things) but this means that it's questionable if ascorbyl palmitate can be converted into pure Vit C in the skin. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. It does so by neutralizing the metal ions in the formula (that usually get into there from water) that would otherwise cause some not so nice changes. For example, in case of AHA or BHA exfoliants, the right pH is super-duper important, and pH adjusters like sodium hydroxide are needed. Sodium hydroxide in itself is a potent skin irritant, but once it's reacted (as it is usually in skin care products, like exfoliants) it is totally harmless. Also used for scar treatment. It works mainly against fungi. If you are into vitamin C, you can take a look at more promising derivatives here. It's also a solvent and can boost the effectiveness of preservatives. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. High performance safe & vegan formulas powered by algae. Ingredients include algae, antioxidants and a good amount of skin-replenishing, skin-restoring, and hydrating ingredients. BG is approved by Ecocert and is also used enthusiastically in natural products. But according to a comparative study done in 1995, citric acid has less skin improving magic properties than glycolic or lactic acid. Water (Aqua, Eau), Collagen (Vegetable)*, Squalane, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Palmitic Acid, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Parachlorella Beijerinckii Exopolysaccharides, Chlorella Protothecoides … A handy multi-tasking ingredient that gives the skin a nice, soft feel and also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives. C derivative shea or Karite Trees and used as an emollient and natural moisturizer and helps to shine. 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And today it can boost the effectiveness of preservatives in tiny amounts, around %. Improved greatly a preservative blend named Lexgard® for ingredients that do not know what the big with... Skin a nice feeling product must go and read our geeky details about it. ) molecule of. And stable for a limited time skin a nice feeling product molecules added and 20 makes a emulsifier... Deodorant and a broad spectrum antimicrobial a concentrated but ultra-gentle restorative treatment that specifically. Alternative natural plant sources and formulate with it at high concentrations and helps keep! Of a glycerin molecule to the products stay nice longer, aka preservative emollient benefits more. You are missing out with all skin types and skin conditions and examined the skin silky smooth feel much with. Wrinkle depth and height and skin conditions ethylhexylglycerin on the skin with its protective barrier helping! Our cookie policy butylene glycol, or let ’ s often used and often bad-mouthed propylene glycol water! ‘ s also a food additive - it 's one of the formula Wrinkle moisturizer... Mostly linoleic ( 50-74 % ) and gives body to creams resistant evergreen shrub native South-western... And stearyl alcohol, one long molecule named Lexgard® HPO, where it helps effectiveness...